24 Mai 2023
Meet Axel Kabus, our After-Sales Expert and Guardian of Watches (once they’ve flown the nest to make their way in the world). A sort of Professor Xavier to our creations, Axel is one of a select few experts who take care of our clients’ every need. Repairs, damage, aesthetic requests or regular servicing: he’s got you covered. Ok, please don’t ask him to order you a limo at 2am. But pretty much anything else...
The Endeavour Centre Seconds Automatic Red Gold in Midnight Blue – it’s streamlined and self-winding, with an understated lightweight exterior. The automatic calibre means that it produces its own energy, but it still has a slim profile. It’s what I like about all H. Moser & Cie. watches– they are pared down to the most elegant essentials.
My favourite thing is adding the last part of the automatic module, which allows the watch to wind itself. You have a winding wheel, an eccentric wheel, a winding pawl and pawel wheel. The winding pawl pulls and pushes the pawel wheel and acts on the winding wheel, and then over yet another wheel delivers the energy to the barrel. It is a very small, compact construction. But quite complex!
Of course we have to save the day when watches get broken or smashed… this always hurts a little… or a lot! As watchmakers, we put so much energy into our creations, so obviously it’s hard to see them damaged.
It depends which part of the brain I’m using… when you work with the parasympathetic nervous system, you get into a flow–especially when assembling complex movements like the perpetual calendar. It’s a bit like a meditative trance.
In comparison to other manual professions, there isn’t that much physical exertion. But mental exertion, yes. Quite often you might spend a whole weekend ruminating over a particular problem, trying to come up with a solution.
It takes between 20 and 28 hours to repair, for example, a perpetual calendar. I work on about 3-4 watches per week. Since March 2014.
I think I’ve learned more here– and in less time– than at any job I’ve ever had. I started five years ago with all the basic movements, but it evolved very quickly.
I’ve worked on everything from new prototypes to very old heirlooms, simple repairs to complete re-engineering– people bring us their watches from all over the world, it’s not just the Swiss who come to the workshop!
This job really gives you a sense of the important relationship between a Moser watch and its owner… that these are treasured possessions, maybe handed down from generation to generation. I speak to people on the phone, meet them when they come to the workshop– sometimes I receive the watch and perform the work myself, sometimes I enlist an expert if it’s a particularly old watch or an unusual problem. But it’s very personal– and quite an honour.


An expression of our minimalist philosophy, pushed to the limit. The Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton is fully openworked, stripped back to what’s essential and nothing more. Time is driven by a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring, visible in its entirety. Housed in a 40mm 5N red gold case and powered by the skeletonised HMC 814, this is a watch for those who value subtraction. For whom reduction is the clearest form of revelation.
DiscoverHistory
In Chapter Four, we talked to Mr. Balsiger about Moser’s unique identity– and his predictions for the future. From the meaning of luxury, to what makes Moser ‘very rare’, and a particularly fateful meeting with a Stranger on a Train. You can also catch up with Chapter One through Four here.
Team
The Master of Balance, King of Precision, Artiste of Assembly. Nothing escapes Andreas Albert, with his eagle-sharp eye and surgically-accurate hands. He may run a tight ship, but his atelier sounds like quite a fun place to be. An affectionate guardian to our complex machinery, Andreas is also a bit of an inventor!
History
In Chapter Six, Roger shares some personal favourites, muses on the intelligence of lions, and explains why he could never fall in love with a smartwatch. You can also catch up with Chapter One through Five here.
